The number one thing I get asked about besides how to play Dungeons and Dragons is my miniatures hobby; usually assuming that I play Warhammer (down that road lay madness). It’s somewhat understandable since the popularity of cell phones has let everybody comprehend computers a bit more. I still like plenty of tabletop and miniatures wargames, and play them often.

Miniatures wargames are a time honored hobby, inspired by the movement of pieces by generals and used now to simulate pretty much everything. Gary Gygax’s original RPG, Chainmail and the first few DnD editions were more or less wargames, a lot of focus was on the combat abilities of the character improving over time and fighting on a grid or table. Steve Jacksons OGRE can be bought in a travel version that is some maps, the booklet, and a bunch of cutout tokens to move around the map; that style persists today in many space-ship combat sim games.

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There’s a miniatures line for everybody

There are two popular styles of Miniatures Wargame. A war simulation, and a role playing wargame with the difference being how much focus is put on character development. Necromunda and Gorka-Morka are two Games Workshop specialist games where you have your own party of characters you outfit, customize, upgrade, and level up. Their most popular game line Warhammer has no such aspect, forces are made from a point buy system with customization but no persistent aspects. It’s worth noting that both types of game benefit from organized campaign play that adds enough persistence to keep people interested.

To some extent both styles require you to put together a force of models that represents your army, and the other players do the same according to an accepted point value (almost all games use one, and it just tends to work.) and then take turns adding terrain to the table until you have a battleground. Initiative is rolled, game begins.

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Gorka-Morka, which can be summed up as Mad Max with Orks

Warhammer 40K uses both a point buy and a squad choice system. You have to have minimal types of squads before your army is table legal. The game I play, Dystopian Wars, is the same way: A table legal force contains at least one large/massive, one medium, and one small sized squad, with a commander placed on one of your large/massive squads. Because you can only bring so many of your models to the table, you have to be clever about how you build and play your force.

The Empire of Man in Warhammer Fantasy has huge groups of regimental infantry they can creep forward with, supported by cannon and arquebus fire. The Orks on the other hand outnumber everybody and fling wave after wave at the enemy until they win, being absolute rubbish at range. The Ogres string together charge attack after charge attack, smashing into lines of smaller units. Every army plays a bit differently for every game; which can be damning if you find out you don’t like the style of the army you bought.

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Alternatively there are paper miniatures for cheapskates!

Individual models have ratings and qualities that set it apart from others. Empire infantry aren’t tough like Orks, but are more disciplined. Federated States tanks are loaded with sharpshooters while the Republique uses many status effect inducing weapons. It can be maddening at first with some games trying to understand what does what, i’m still struggling to be better!

What game you pick also tells you what to expect out of combat. Warhammer Fantasy does not let you shoot into melee fights, Dystopian Wars has three different size classes of units for any environment, and Infinity channels the complexity of cyberpunk firefights. Those three games have different rhythms because they simulate different kinds of engagements. Infinity is all about cover, terrain is a core part of the experience; while in the game I play I have not even bothered trying to dabble with terrain yet. Let’s win a game first before I try that.

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Part of a Warhammer Fantasy army

What still makes wargamers a rare breed is how much time, money, and effort that the hobby demands. I chose DW specifically because it was cheap and I still have put down a lot for it; an amount that would of hardly bought me a full Warhammer army. Then comes painting and assembly, depending on what game you chose that can take days. A decent Ork army numbers 150+ models! With 3D printers coming out swinging, these models now have even more detail than they used to, that adds time too. And then play is 3 hours minimum for a wargame, less if both people know what they are doing. You don’t do this unless you want to.

I just finished priming a massive Republique of France army, a 2000 point list using all of my favorite tricks: Floating naval cruisers, screens of fighter aircraft, heat lance tanks, and more. The next step for them is painting. The great thing about the game I chose is they are more or less all vaguely round or square shaped tanks with a low profile; perfect for beginners. The major marketing strategy behind the new Age of Sigmar line on the other hand was larger, more detailed models intended for enthusiasts. Painting Galleries aren’t complete if there isn’t a well painted Space Marine army on there somewhere.  

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Mandatory Space Marines

A game typically ends when one side is hopelessly outfought. Some games like Dystopian Wars gives you a random win condition, meaning you have to fight the enemy a specific way if you want to win. You usually have to blow up all of a certain size class in addition to a percentage of the enemies points. Other times you have to capture specifics positions, it varies by game. Campaign based games usually have you retreating if you are losing, not by force but the alternative is losing all your good units; a rule in Necromunda is if a character dies you lose its gear (Some street kid runs out and grabs his stuff before the fight ends) and in Gorka-Morka don’t expect to drive a car the next match if it’s been blown up. 

What I like about Miniatures Wargames is that they are a social experience mixed with arts and hobbies. There is a certain calm that comes from painting up an army, and a certain freedom you feel when priming your first army. It’s something I suggest for those that want to try it out.

I suppose that here at Geekscape not that many eyebrows would be raised if someone said they were thinking about dropping $110* on a Star Wars model. After all, she is a beauty isn’t she?

[*That’s UK prices, in the US you can pick it up for a mere $61]

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TANTIVE IV

While the Tantive IV would look great decorating your shelf, this is not just an ornament, it’s part of a board game, or if you are being pedantic, a miniatures battle game – the Star Wars: X-Wing Miniatures Game. I think that Star Wars: X-Wing Miniatures is a great game for any gamer, but especially the geek gamer. While the Star Wars connection is one obvious reason (and they also make a very similar Star Trek version for those who swing more that way) I will try to give you a few more.

The Basics

Let’s start by explaining what the game is: it’s Star Wars dog fighting. Is that good enough? OK. It is a game of two sides, Alliance vs Empire of course, designed to be played by two players but that can easily accommodate more with a few extra ships and team play. Each of you controls one or more ships flying around in space trying to achieve your mission goals. These can be as simple as a TIE Fighter vs X-Wing fight to the death or a more sophisticated scenario involving escorting shuttles, scanning probes and so on.

(IMAGE: XanderF) – TIE Bomber Run

The rules are pretty simple which makes it an easy game to pick up, and I think it’s worth me going through them briefly. At the start of each turn the players all secretly and simultaneously select how far their ships are going to move and in which direction by using little dials that belong to each ship. Each type of ship a different choices – TIE Interceptors for example are obviously quicker and more manoeuvrable than Y-Wings. Players then reveal the dials one at a time and move their ships, in order of pilot skill. After a ship moves it can take one of a small number of actions that vary depending on ship type. For example they can Target Lock in order to increase their chance of attacks hitting and have an opportunity to fire any missiles they might have, or they might Evade reducing the chances of being hit if fired upon.

DICE AND RANGE RULER

Once all the ships have moved, it’s shootin’ time. The most skilled pilots go first and pick a target. Simple range and line of sight is determined with a natty little ruler shaped like a laser blast – red on one side and green on the other. The attacking player rolls a number of special attack dice and sees how many hits they score. The defending player rolls the defence dice and tries to cancel out any hits. Players may spend those tokens I mentioned that you can take as actions. Each hit damages the ship, reducing shields first and then causing hull damage. Once your hull is depleted the ship explodes in space. Feel free to hum the sad Binary Sunset music mockingly at your opponent. After all ships that are able to fire the round is over and you start again setting your manoeuvre dials. And that is basically it. Simple yet elegant. I think this is a great game for both the first time casual player or the hardcore seasoned gamer, and here’s why.

Simple but meaningful choices

As I hope I have shown, the rules are easy and your choices fairly simple each turn. Do you fly at the enemy head on with all your forces, or do you divide your strength by splitting up to flank them , do you go for their strongest ship first to take it out early, or do you try and pick off the weaker ones quickly first? Do you pull a difficult manoeuvre to get into (or out of) a crucial spot but then take a Stress token limiting your options later? And after your move you will have another choice to make. This will probably be one of 3 or 4 possible actions for each ship, and these again can be crucial decisions. Maybe your ship has the option to do a Barrel Roll [best Peppy voice please], Evade or Focus. The benefits of each choice will dependent on what your opponent does and whether you plan to be opening fire or trying to duck and cover. The options are never complex but the choices can be agonising and the consequences weighty.

Variable ship characteristics

SHIP CARDS
SHIP CARDS

As illustrated above each ship has unique characteristics. The X-Wing is has 3 attack dice [red number] and only 2 defence [green number] meaning it has more firepower than the TIE [2 attack] but is not as evasive [3 defense]. However when the tie is hit it will explode in a ball of flames after taking only 3 damage [yellow], whereas the X-Wing has 2 shields [blue] to take out before it receives real damage. As mentioned before they also have different abilities, for example TIEs can do a barrel roll and X-Wings can target lock. As a result it really feels like you are flying very different ships and you therefore adjust your play style accordingly.

Squad Customisation

Not only is each ship different but they all cost a different number of points. This is further modified by the skill of the pilot, as more skilled pilots move last (usually an advantage) and shoot first (always an advantage). Better pilots are also more likely to have special abilities that can modify the game, changing die results, adding or removing tokens, adjusting combat rolls and so on. As an example of cost Luke in his X-Wing costs 28 points whereas a lowly Academy Pilot in their TIE is only 12. Finally you can further customise a ship by adding upgrade cards like missiles, pilot skills and R2 units. When picking your roster you set a number of squad points each; 50, 100, 200 or whatever, and build two squads. If you enjoy this kind of thing you can spend ages fine tuning a squad. If you don’t it’s pretty easy to do off the cuff, or you can find pre-made squad suggestions in the box or online. And while the box says 2 players, bigger squads mean you can play with more players. I have had many enjoyable 3-5 player team games, with each player controlling one or more ships.

Ship Collection

In the starter box you get one X-Wing and two TIE Fighters with a bunch of different pilot and upgrade cards. This alone is enough for plenty of game, with a few different scenarios adding variety if you want a rest from last-man-standing type play. But we are geeks and cannot stop there. The damn company keep releasing more ships and how can we resist? For about $10 each you can get A-wings, B-wings, Y-wings, TIE interceptors, TIE bombers and the TIE Advanced. Each ship plays a little differently and has different pilot and upgrade cards in the box, with the latter often usable on many of your other ships. And there are bigger (of course more expensive) ships like the Falcon, Slave I and an Imperial Shuttle. And recently even bigger ships with the Tantive IV and a Rebel Transport. Many of the new ships add minor or major new rules and mechanics to the game. There are now even extended canon ships like TIE defenders and Z-95s. I am up to 14 ships at the moment and having a bit of a rest. For now.

DEATH STAR ATTACK
(IMAGE: SEBASTIAN BLANCO
sebastianblanco.zenfolio.com) – DEATH STAR ATTACK

Conclusion

For $27 you get a simple and fairly elegant game with amazing models. You have a rules set that is easy enough that my 5 year old son can play the game and squad build with a little help, and yet create deep enough play to satisfy the tactical needs of many of the more hard core gamers in my group. You can keep it light and drop it on the table for a quick casual game or you can spend hours honing your squad to compete in national tournaments.

Bottom line is, at the end of the day it’s just fun. And did I mention it’s Star Wars?