Surviving Life: A Weekly Mixtape — Clothing

Clothing

“Clothes can either suggest, persuade, connote, insinuate, or indeed lie…”
— Anne Hollander, Seeing Though Clothes (1975)

While clothing may have started very simply out of necessity for warmth, beginning with simple animal pelts or grasses tied with sinew, the idea of garments have grown right along with civilization. What some consider a necessity (i.e., food, shelter, and clothing) others consider a status symbol. Entire industries have sprung up as a way to denote one’s class and style, to promote virtues and scruples, as well as advertise a brand with a logo or slogan. Clothing immediately denotes at which lunch table one can sit or what occupational grouping one belongs. Clothing can also have intrinsic values in raising one’s self-worth or assisting with comfort. While someone might spend close to or upwards of an hour getting ready for work or a night on the town with a new infatuation, one may also spend very little time, conversely, choosing an outfit to work from home. This can effect the psyche, the performance, and the level of effort one puts out. Clothing has become imperative in defining one’s personality, if one, of course, chooses. Because while we are influenced by society, media, music, movies, television, influencer culture, etc., we are also, like most things, choosing to be a part of something based on how it makes us feel. Some desire to be accepted by others, and so choose their outfits with this in mind. Others choose their vocation, which mandates certain dress for safety or uniformity. While more still choose varying styles and levels of comfort due to a chameleon-esque property that drives their need to blend into any situation. On a solely visual level, their clothing with make-or-break that attempt. As a result of evolution, we have learned to make snap judgments on the world around us for the sake of survival. While not literal life-or-death, judging others based on their “chosen costume” can in fact be a useful social survival skill. Maybe this is why subconsciously we are so driven to make these assumptions. What would someone assume about you if they saw what you were wearing right now? And what can we assume about this week’s songs based on their use of clothing referentially?

Listen to the mix in order as you read about all of these hot hot tracks, via Mixcloud embed:

SIDE A

1 . VAN MORRISON “ASTRAL WEEKS” (1968)

Is this entire song about clothes? No. But I heard it this week, and the lines, “Takin’ good care of your boy / Seein’ that he’s got clean clothes / And puttin’ on his little red shoes” made me want to open the mix with it. The song itself opens possibly my personal favorite album (and also, a dessert island disc of famed music critic Lester Bangs). I even enjoy Glenn Hansard’s cover almost as much as the original, but there is something about this opus of a record that has stuck with me for years. There is something hypnotic (possibly the repeated phrases, i.e. “way up in way up in way up in the heaven”) and even calming in the muted chaos that defines this sadly underrated record in the public consciousness. True music fans know it and love it, but that barely seems like enough. I implore you, if you haven’t already, to listen to the album as a whole, without your phone, without distractions, a deep listening experience. Put it on and complete the task from start to finish, uninterrupted (it will only take about 47 minutes of your day), and make note of how you feel afterward. Something about this record has me coming back to it time and time again, and maybe it does feel like someone just laid out freshly washed clothes and put on my little red shoes, and maybe it feels like the first rays of sunshine after a spring rain, but either way, it is a careless and refreshed feeling. 

2.  STING “ROXANNE” (2010)

From little red shoes to a signifying red light, there is something more haunting and fitting about the Symphonicities version of this song (which I’ve included on this week’s mixtape), versus the original 1978 white reggae pop masterpiece. It feels like Sting is genuinely pleading with the prostitutes of Paris he originally wrote the song about, telling them they no longer have to sell their bodies for money. He’s more invested, not monetarily. This is more adult, more sophisticated, more deserving of the Cyrano de Bergerac character the title was taken from. The single initially flopped in the U.K., although it has since been labeled one of the greatest songs in rock ’n’ roll history by many media outlets. It made an appearance in 48 Hours via Eddie Murphy. 

3.  LANA DEL REY “BLUE JEANS” (2012)

A musical mix of nostalgia, surf reverb, and string-plucked dreams, “Blue Jeans” is a low-key love song that feels like an updated reworking of Jack’s death in Titanic. The key to Del Rey’s success has always been image, and a song titled-after the most iconic leg coverings in American popular culture mixed with references to the most tragic died-before-his-time actor James Dean, automatically adds a mythical weight to this song before the chorus pops like a Bazooka Joe bubble on the cheeks of a teeny-bopper. Maybe that’s the allure of Lana, maybe it’s the found-footage video editing, or maybe it’s the infusing of all-decades of the 20th century into one sound that really makes her so universally approachable, but regardless, this song will remain classic like blue jeans and a white t-shirt.

4. CARLY SIMON “YOU’RE SO VAIN” (1972)

So who exactly was Carly singing about that “walked into the party” wearing an tilted hat and an apricot scarf? It was actually American author Nicholas Delbanco, however that’s not who the subject matter is referring to. Howard Stern and Taylor Swift apparently know, and many, including the man himself, assume it was about Warren Beaty, whom Carly dated. But Simon herself has claimed it is an amalgam of three different men. Interestingly, the song starts with a bass riff played by Beatles’ Revolver artist Klaus Voormann, to which Carly famously replied “Son of a gun” after hearing, and features backup vocals by Stones’ frontman Mick Jagger, who just happened to be calling in to the studio and was asked to come by. The result is one of the most beloved breakup songs in history.

5.  WEEZER “UNDONE — THE SWEATER SONG” (1994)

Often overshadowed by the follow-up hits “Buddy Holly” and “Say It Ain’t So,” “Undone…” was released on the world in June of 1994 and introduced us to one of the most hit or miss bands of the modern era. While one can see a sweater unraveling in Soul Coughing’s “Circles” video, none exists in Weezer’s debut as that was the one thing they insisted not be in the video. Geffen Records (they were released by subsidiary DGC) received many treatments all including a sweater. The only one who didn’t was Spike Jonez, who just wanted a blue set and a pack of dogs. They shot the video to a sped up version of the song about 30 times, and used one of the sillier takes where one of the dogs had defecated on Patrick Wilson’s drum pedal. 

6. NANCY SINATRA “THESE BOOTS ARE MADE FOR WALKIN’” (1965)

An iconic walking bassline provided by Chuck Berghofer to accompany the lyrical content, this song was written by Lee Hazelwood, and was backed by iconic L.A.-based musical collective later known as “The Wrecking Crew.” The song was initially intended for writer Lee to sing, but Sinatra convinced him it came off as abusive from a man, so he let her have a crack at it. The song also had a promotional film (later known as a music video) that featured Sinatra in an iconic pair of red leather boots. Along with Carly’s entry, “…Boots…” may be the finest bitchy kiss-off in pop history. It was featured in Stanley Kubrick’s “Full Metal Jacket” and oddly covered by Jessica Simpson for “The Dukes of Hazzard” film. 

7. CAKE “SHORT SKIRT / LONG JACKET” (2001)

Lyrics that start relatable enough and then get obscurely specific, this was John McCrea’s take on the weirdness of the human mating ritual. How odd that someone would specifically want their potential mate to wear a short skirt matched with a long jacket, or that he fantasizes about meeting at a bank and needs to borrow a pen (a product of which is in abundance at a bank, so why would she need to borrow his, there’s a ton in the cup at the ticket writing station…) But that’s the allure of Cake, whether they’re commenting on Frank Sinatra’s ability to bring flies and spiders together or the luxury of the now defunct bench seat or commenting on how ridiculous the concert merchandizing business had become almost an underground status symbol (again with clothing having meaning…), this band always has something to say, even if it’s pushing intelligent political discourse on their social media forums.

8. KC & THE SUNSHINE BAND “BOOGIE SHOES” (1977)

Much like my awareness of comics and Jason Lee, my soft spot for “Boogie Shoes” came from the film Mallrats, which I can still quote excessively and, if malls still existed, probably would rant about escalators ad nauseum while having a Superman post-coital debate with my friend outside the food court. (I’m just showing off at this point). But originally, this song became a hit due to the film Saturday Night Fever, and for later generations due to its sampling in Bloodhound Gang’s “One Way” and Trick Daddy’s “Take It To Da House.” The horn section played an unforgettable riff, and the simple idea that a certain pair of shoes makes one wanna dance is relatable (how many people put a basket of flip-flops at a wedding to encourage comfort on the dance floor, and then how many wedding DJs still play this song decades later?).

9. PRINCE “RASPBERRY BERET” (1985)

The song was inspired by a deleted scene from the film Purple Rain, and was one of Prince’s most straight-forward pop tunes. Revered as a genius and talent way beyond his time, Minnesota’s Purple One has proven time and again why he belongs on a pedestal above many of his contemporaries, and it is every single aspect of his being is mythical. Proven not only due to his songwriting prowess, but also his live performances and his style all claim precedence in his universal reverence. 

10. JAY-Z “CHANGE CLOTHES” (2003)

Catchy as it is, this is probably the weakest link on Brooklyn rapper’s supposed retirement party The Black Album, and that still makes it a damn good song. With production by The Neptunes and additional vocals from Pharrell Williams, this one is just a feel-good funk bop with a catchy ride cymbal and stuttered piano riff. Most rap songs have references to clothing brands as status, but few can spout off their own brands like Hova with Roc-A-Wear (maybe Sean “Diddy” Combs with Sean Jean, Kanye West with Yeezy, Marshall Mathers with Shady, and Russell Simmons with Phat Farm).

11. NELLY “HOT IN HERRE” (2002)

Another Neptunes produced fire track, this isn’t about clothes specifically, more about taking them off due to the temperature of the room. Apparently when the club is on fire, it’s time to remove your coverings and dance it out. That’s the lesson I learned here, anyway.  One thing Nelly didn’t take off until far too late? That Band-Aid. Or, sorry, adhesive strip. I don’t want to be guilty of brand association. Basically he was wearing it to cover up a basketball injury initially, then kept wearing it to show his friend and collaborator City Spud that he believed he was innocent while he was incarcerated doing ten years for robbery. No idea if he actually was innocent, but I have been to prison, and yes, if you ask your fellow inmates, everyone there is not guilty. Back to “Hot In Herre”: The song mainly features a sample of Chuck Brown’s go-go hit “Bustin’ Loose”, but oddly enough, the opening is taken from Neil Young’s “There’s a World” mixed with Nancy Sinatra’s “As Tears Go By.” Listen, you’ll be amazed.

12. GYM CLASS HEROES “CLOTHES OFF!” (2007)

Instead of using Jermaine Stewart’s “We Don’t Have To Take Our Clothes Off” from the ‘80s, I last minute switched it for this version, mainly because I’d rather party with no clothes then all of them. I think body positivity is important, and while I agree with Jermaine, that no one should be  pressured to do what they are uncomfortable with, I also feel like we as a society (especially in America, where I’m writing this) need to be less prudish and also stop sexualizing all nudity, especially when it is simply being used for breastfeeding or skinny dipping or the bottom half or more of pants missing, etc. It seems like clothing, especially a lack of it, gets blamed for sexual crimes and, quite frankly since I have nothing interesting to say about this song other than it features vocals by Fall Out Boy’s Patrick Stump, I am taking this opportunity to (hopefully) preach to the choir and remind everyone that someone’s choice of clothing absolutely in no way is any type of invitation or signal for sexual contact. What someone wears is for their own pleasure, and they will let us know through consent whether they want to engage in any kind of activity that involves removal of said clothes. Capiche? Anyway, I think it’s time to flip the mix.

SIDE B

1 . JUSTIN TIMBERLAKE “SUIT & TIE (FEAT. JAY-Z)” (2013)

After a six-year hiatus from music to focus on acting, not counting, of course, his Saturday Night Live appearances and The Lonely Island collaborations, former boy band future EGOT recipient Justin Timberlake returned with this ode to dress clothes and single-handedly brought the bow-tie back into fashion. The song speaks for itself and is just a typical Timbaland-produced banger that nicely opens Side B of this week’s mixtape.

2.  MACKLEMORE & RYAN LEWS “THRIFT SHOP (FEAT. WANZ)” (2012)

An antithesis of typical hip-hop while still maintaining the authenticity, “Thrift Shop” was an anomaly of the early ‘10s. The song not only recognized that the inflation of prices due to brand recognition was, in fact, ridiculous, but also glamorized intelligent spending and second-hand purchases while being fun and approachable. Fun DJ fact: this song mixes with the Sorta Crackers Band’s version of the “Chicken Dance” unexpectedly well. So unhear that…

3. FLO RIDA “LOW (FEAT. T-PAIN)” (2007)

Apple Bottom Jeans were actually a brand put out by rapper Nelly, who, like most hip-hop stars of the early aughts, capitalized in any way possible on his brief success. Flo Rida, a rapper, loosely defined, from, get this, Florida, hit number one on the Billboard chart for ten weeks with this club banger. The song describes differing outfit preferences, where one shawty has the jeans and fur boots and another is wearing baggy sweatpants and Reebok sneakers, although both apparently have large posteriors. Interestingly, there is no winner in this song’s outfit competition, as Flo Rida later states that he “prefer(s) them (with) no clothes” and so maybe we can skip back to the taking off of clothes instructions that closed out Side A of our mix in order to please everyone involved.

4. CARDI B “BODAK YELLOW” (2017)

Ten years later, we go from boots with fur to red-bottomed shoes, a signature of French fashion designer Christian Louboutin. Cardi B (real name: Belcalis Marlenis Almánzar) was raised in the South Bronx and began stripping at age 19, before starring in the sixth and seventh seasons of VH1’s reality show “Love & Hip-Hop: New York.” She left the show to pursue a career in music and it seems to be going “okkkuuurrr” so far, especially considering she made enough money to cover expensive dental work, which she even relays in the song “it ain’t cheap” to get one’s teeth fixed. She broke all types of records with “Bodak Yellow” and credits her aggressive style to early ‘00s rappers Khia and Trina. Cardi shows no sign of slowing down with acting, music, and political activism keeping her busy.

5. SISQÓ “THONG SONG” (2000)

Would you believe it if I told you this song was inspired by The Beatles’ “Eleanor Rigby”? I had to read it a few times myself, but, yes, that is a fact. The strings are inspired by jazz artist Wes Montgomery’s cover of the Revolver track, and the lyrics are inspired by a butt. So that’s a dichotomy if ever I heard one. Do I really have to analyze and critique this one? It’s the fucking “Thong Song.”

6. SHONTELLE “T-SHIRT” (2008)

There is something to be said about gender-swapping clothing. Whether it’s Nirvana wearing dresses for a photo shoot, Buffalo Bill dancing in a kimono, or a viral gender-swap challenge on YouTube or TikTok, this song has Shontelle in her bf’s t-shirt and that’s pretty cool. There’s something liberating or taboo about wearing the assigned uniform of the opposite sex for some, and in this song it’s simply a comfort. Is it the smell? Is it the blanket of familiarity? Listen and decide for yourself. I almost forgot about she existed until a friend suggested the song for this mixtape, then in found out in March 2020, Shontelle released the single “Remember Me” and I felt bad so this song got the pity inclusion.

7. SHORTY LONG “DEVIL WITH THE BLUE DRESS” (1964)

This Motown single initially failed to chart until it was reworked and backended with “Good Golly Miss Molly” two years later by Mitch Ryder. Frederick Earl “Shorty” Long had his biggest hit with “Here Comes the Judge” in 1968 which reached number 8 on Billboard pop charts, but it was “Devil…” that was iconic for many reasons, not least of all that it was the first release on Motown’s subsidiary Soul label. It’s a shame that he was ignored by Motown, but hopefully his legacy will live longer than he did: his boat crashed in 1969 drowning he and a friend in the Detroit River. His epitaph states: “So there endeth the career of a man who sang what he wanted to sing – everything from the blues to romantic ballads, from wild and crazy numbers to a utopian vision of Heaven on Earth. Short in stature but big in talent, he entertained and amazed us, and finally he inspired us.”

8. ELVIS COSTELLO “(THE ANGELS WANNA WEAR MY) RED SHOES” (1977)

Written on a train from London to Liverpool in about 10 minutes, this third single from Costello’s debut album is admittedly a staple in live sets, maybe due to its catchiness, maybe its biting lyrics (“Oh, I said, ‘I’m so happy I could die’ / She said, ‘Drop dead’ then left with another guy”), but either way, it remains a classic. It probably didn’t hurt that future Doobie Brother John McFee played Byrd-like jangle pop riffs on this single, as this album was recorded before Elvis recruited The Attractions.

9. THE PSYCHEDELIC FURS “PRETTY IN PINK” (1986)

While Tim Butler’s claim that this song “helped the sale of pink clothes worldwide” may be debatable, it’s not under discussion about how influential the song was for the ‘80s teen film of the same name from famed director John Hughes and iconic actress Molly Ringwold. Interestingly enough, the original single from 1981 made less than a splash on the charts and it wasn’t until the filmmaker asked the band to rerecord the song for the film with a “saxed-up” version and guitars that were actually in tune that the song actually made a splash, even if it has some unintelligible mumblings about Oedipus and Greek mythology. The soundtrack version is included on this mixtape.

10. ZZ TOP “SHARP DRESSED MAN” (1983)

This Texas trio did well following in the southern rock footsteps of Lynyrd Skynyrd and the Allman Brothers, but in 1983, with the rise of MTV, their comically large beards, spinning guitars, and affinity for hot rods became a staple to their look. While it may be true that every girl is crazy for a sharp dressed man, it doesn’t hurt to have killer guitar chops in the traditional blues vein, and guitarist Billy Gibbons has just that and more.

11. RANCID “TIME BOMB” (1995)

The lyrics to the first verse are literally stolen from an earlier Rancid song “Motorcycle Ride” off Let’s Go. A strangely sanitized version of this is covered by Lane’s band on the show Gilmore Girls, in which Sebastian Bach of Skid Row plays bass and doesn’t know the correct words. Also, since there was a meme going around that “ska sounds like what plays in a 13 year old’s head when he gets extra mozzarella sticks” and all of this is true, but ska actually predates reggae by about a decade (a discussion best left to ska subreddits and actual rude boys), but Rancid’s brand of ska-punk, developed mainly by the Clash and perfected by Rancid’s own Matt Freeman and Tim Armstrong in their previous group Operation Ivy, is what makes me personally long for the mid- to late-‘90s the most. Skank it out to the final track in your black coat, white shoes, and black hat and let’s pickituppickituppickitup next week when we talk about “Honoring the Dead” as our theme. 

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